Well, Dear Reader(s), it's that time again.
With the boat snug (?) on the Firth of Clyde we can look forward to a cozy Christmas ... just me, my beloved crew and first mate and, of course, Bonzo.
Bonzo was much better whilst on probation and hasn't been responsible for any very serious injuries to the public since the Summer, apart, of course, from the Council Dog Warden and his assistant*, and, to be fair to the wretched canine, it is their job anyway, isn't it?
Bonzo is especially excited at Christmas, I think he enjoys the opportunities that emanate from two postal deliveries each day, even if only for another week or so.
Happy Christmas.
* aka "The Assistant Council Dog Warden".
Saturday, 15 December 2012
Sunday, 21 October 2012
Next Year Beckons
I know how anxious you will all be, Dear Readers (Yes, both
of you), to hear of next year’s plans.
As I am, once more in (part-time) gainful employment, the
sailing season is reduced to a mere 3 or 4 months .. but anyway:
Mid March 2013 (possibly 17th)
depart from Troon to continue our exploration of the Western
Isles, with a view to leaving the boat (probably) in Arisaig in mid April
(perhaps 15th) and returning home (to feed the dogs*).
Arisaig is a very nice place, and easily accessible from
Glasgow by train.
June (possibly 22nd)
leave Arisaig heading north (approximately) with a view to
arriving in the Orkney Islands !** after a 2 or 3 weeks.
Stones on Orkney
July, August and September
Sail to and explore:
The Isles
of Orkney
Fair Isle
Shetland
Isles
Puffins in the Shetland Islands
Then back via Orkney and the Pentland Firth, Wick,
Inverness, The Caledonian Canal, Fort William and back down to Troon.
Somewhere on the Caledonian Canal
We will fly home once or twice (probably from Kirkwall on
Orkney) during the trip (to feed the dogs, etc.)
So, Dear Reader(s) if you are interested in dog-free yachting in
Scotland next year, please let us know!
Join us for a gentle Easter Cruise in the Western Isles
around Easter
..or
Arisaig to Orkney in late June
..or
Orkney and Shetland in July / August
..or
North East Scotland and back down the Caledonian Canal in
August / September.
* more about these later.
! ** implies excitement.
Monday, 10 September 2012
Tarbert, Troon and home
We like Tarbert (population
1338).
We had a very good time cruising with Footloose, enjoying
amongst many things
excellent company, good food, intrepid mountain climbing, one slightly dangerous flubber trip,
sailing and lovely scenery.
Footloose sailing
Friday:
We decided that it was time to go home ... well … back to
Troon anyway.
We sailed from Tarbert to Troon.
Whenever it was too windy we reefed and this had the effect
of immediately making it not windy enough; we therefore un-reefed and ...
you’ve guessed it.
So we sailed back to Troon merrily pulling the sail up and
down.
Troon, when we arrived was much the same as usual (and possibly nearly as exciting as Haywards Heath* )
We were directed to our “Winter Berth” only to find, at the
last moment, a mooring line stretched
across it. Luckily my brilliant
co-skipper spotted this obstacle in the nick of time and saved the day.
Saturday:
We emptied “Albatross” into our trusty Skoda.
Sunday:
Home again.
Home again.
Next year:
The Orkneys and Shetlands including Fair Isle in the company
of Footloose!
* Saint Hayward's Heath is justly proud of its ground-breaking website.
Thursday, 6 September 2012
Cuckfield to Portavadie to Troon to Lamlash to somewhere unpronounceable* at the top of the Kyles of Bute to East Loch Tarbert.
The plot so far … is entirely unimportant.
The new plot:
Our intrepid sailing couple slip silently away (before dawn)
in an attempt to leave without waking Bonzo who, chained up in the garden,
snores fitfully.
They drive to Portavadie (in Scotland). This is a very very long way.
Next day, one of our intrepid team sails solo to Troon** (by
sea), whilst the other drives (single-handed) to Troon (by road, obviously).
Troon was calm. The street dancers had gone home, the bars
were silent. Not a roulette wheel spun.
No dogs barked.
No dogs barked.
Next day:
Lamlash.
What more can I say?
We went there (by boat).
Soon Peter and Sara also arrived.
Tuesday:
Evidence of
successful mountain climbing.
There was good view.
A good view.
Holy Island is a Buddhist Island and therefore entirely free
of dogs.
Holy Island has Sheep and Goats (these are not difficult to
tell apart***).
Green Tara
After checking out Holy Island, our intrepid foursome
flubbered back to their boats.
It may be interesting, at this point, to realise that, such
were the weather conditions that afternoon, the ferry had been cancelled and
that only wet or silly people were at sea.
Jean avoided getting wetter on the journey back by (gracefully) lying down
in the water before climbing into the flubber.
Wednesday:
We sailed to somewhere unpronounceable* at the top of the
Kyles of Bute.
We all agreed that it was a “cracking good sail”.
(Import to note that, although it obviously wasn’t a race,
Albatross arrived first.)
Footloose cleverly avoiding a rock.
After supping together on Morrisons Chicken Pie, we slept.
Thursday:
To Tarbert (East
Loch Tarbert).
It was windy (F5-F7)
and raining.
We got there first.
It wasn’t a race.
Next week:
Find out then.
*An Caladh
** Troon, City of Adventure. See above or below.
*** The more
discerning reader (John, Linda etc) may here sense the possibility of a joke.
Thursday, 30 August 2012
Yachting, Mars, Curiosity and the role of dogs in the exploration of Space
It is important (to dogs) that the past and future roles of the Canine Species in the exploration of Mars (and Space in general) are never forgotten.
The first intelligent life form (I use the word "intelligent" loosely) to travel into Space was, of course, a dog.
A Russian cosmobitch called "Laika".
This specially-trained 3 year old stray, hurtled into Space in Sputnik II on 3rd November 1957 and died very quickly.
Unfortunately, Sputnik II had the ability to go into orbit but lacked the ability to come out of it again.
Laika did however, had a special stamp published in her honour
Now, Dear Readers, you will be asking "what has this to do with Yachting in Scotland ?"
No idea, almost certainly nothing. But for Bonzo, and dogs everywhere, it is of great significance in this exciting week when Curiosity landed on Mars.
Why, some may ask did they send a complex, nuclear powered, six wheeled, titanium clad, semi-intelligent robot when they could have sent a dog? After all (and this is the key point of this posting) if they'd sent a dog, there would have been life on Mars, albeit quite briefly.
The first intelligent life form (I use the word "intelligent" loosely) to travel into Space was, of course, a dog.
A Russian cosmobitch called "Laika".
This specially-trained 3 year old stray, hurtled into Space in Sputnik II on 3rd November 1957 and died very quickly.
Unfortunately, Sputnik II had the ability to go into orbit but lacked the ability to come out of it again.
Laika did however, had a special stamp published in her honour
Laika the Space Dog
No idea, almost certainly nothing. But for Bonzo, and dogs everywhere, it is of great significance in this exciting week when Curiosity landed on Mars.
Why, some may ask did they send a complex, nuclear powered, six wheeled, titanium clad, semi-intelligent robot when they could have sent a dog? After all (and this is the key point of this posting) if they'd sent a dog, there would have been life on Mars, albeit quite briefly.
Curiosity talking to a couple of Martians
Next week, back to Sailing in Troon and something on Haute Cuisine for Yotties.
Sunday, 26 August 2012
Something about dogs and mobile devices.
We thought that Bonzo should have a smart phone (an
oxymoron?).
After considerable
research we opted for the new 3G iBone from Canine Warehouse.
The iBone, of course, has a bite sensitive screen and comes
in a variety of canine fragrances.
We considered getting him the new iDog instead but felt this was somewhat upmarket for a hound
like our Bonzo.
Canine networking is vital for the modern dog.
The most popular are “lick” and “sniff” but we
opted for “woofer” for Bonzo as he’s
generally quite an aural canine.
Saturday, 18 August 2012
Oban to Crinan to Portavadie to Home
I think this leg
legitimately constituted "An Epic".
The trip from Oban to The Crinan Canal involves “passage planning”.
For those that don’t really understand the intricacies of yotting (me, you (Dear Reader), Bonzo etc.), “passage planning” can be a challenge.
However, in essence, this is what it is about:
1. The tide tends to flow the way you don’t want to go, and (in addition),
2. When the tide flows rapidly over an uneven rocky channel (all of Scotland) the sea may get very rough.
Oban to Crinan is basically like this.
Anyway … having worked it out 3 times, we agreed that the best time to set off was 1255.
We set off at 1240.
The route took us through the Sound of Luing, past (but not through) the infamous Gulf of Corryvreckan, through Dorus Mor and on down to the sea lock at Crinan .. to start our “transit of the canal”.
Anyway (again), despite being fearsome, our trip to Crinan went swimmingly (I may regret using this adverb). Having carefully done as much of the difficult part of the route at slack waters and as near neaps as possible, we hit only 3 knots of tide in Dorus Mor.
John and Ann met us at Crinan.
We were the last boat to get into Canal that night.
We motored through a couple of locks and settled down for the night.
It is important, Dear Reader, to remember to look out for bridges ahead when motoring along canals. Our boat (mast height 16.5 metres) will not easily fit under a closed road bridge (height 2 metres).
Next day was sunny and hot but then became windy.
The Crinan Canal was built about 200 years ago so that ships could get from the Clyde to Oban without going around the Mull of Kintyre (thus avoiding endless renditions of Paul McCartney’s little ditty****…which, of course, at the time, had not been written). Unfortunately because Sir Paul was not born 200 years ago *, the canal served little use until recent years when yotties re-discovered it.
Anyway … Wednesday 15th August 2012
We locked our way, first up and then down the Crinan Canal from Crinan to Ardrisaig.
John and Ann were wonderful, opening and closing gates, catching ropes and providing cake.
We teamed up with another boat which accompanied us through most of the locks. This was good thing because they knew what they were doing.
Towards the end of the day the wind got a bit nasty (F6) and this made locking quite a challenge **.
Wednesday night was too windy for further progress so we rafted up to “Adela” ably assisted by her charming, helpful and altogether very nice skipper ***
We said “Goodbye” to John and Ann and settled down to worrying about the weather.
Thursday 16th August.
After a prolonged period of dithering and worrying about the weather, we eventually decided “to go for it” and left the canal at about 1300 hours in F5 and motored to Portavadie Marina.
Portavadie Marina has hair straighteners in the men’s showers.
For a man with as much hair as I have, this is obviously of crucial importance.
Portavadie is on the West Coast of Scotland.
The oil was on the East Coast.
They didn’t get a lot (any?) business.
The oil rig harbour was therefore converted into a Marina (with hair straighteners in the loos, obviously).
Friday 17th August.
We went home.
Portavadie to Glasgow Airport isn’t difficult (2 buses, one ferry, one train, a shuttle bus … and you’re there!)
The house felt strangely empty without Bonzo.
I hadn’t realised that dogs could be held on remand and then bailed, but perhaps our modest contribution to the Retired Dog Warden Benevolent Fund helped a little. Anyway, our tame psychopathic canine is home again, at least for now.
* Note to Author .. I need to check this
** Yottie term meaning “very difficult”
*** name withheld for security reasons
**** "Mull of Kintyre"
The trip from Oban to The Crinan Canal involves “passage planning”.
For those that don’t really understand the intricacies of yotting (me, you (Dear Reader), Bonzo etc.), “passage planning” can be a challenge.
However, in essence, this is what it is about:
1. The tide tends to flow the way you don’t want to go, and (in addition),
2. When the tide flows rapidly over an uneven rocky channel (all of Scotland) the sea may get very rough.
Oban to Crinan is basically like this.
Anyway … having worked it out 3 times, we agreed that the best time to set off was 1255.
We set off at 1240.
The route took us through the Sound of Luing, past (but not through) the infamous Gulf of Corryvreckan, through Dorus Mor and on down to the sea lock at Crinan .. to start our “transit of the canal”.
Anyway (again), despite being fearsome, our trip to Crinan went swimmingly (I may regret using this adverb). Having carefully done as much of the difficult part of the route at slack waters and as near neaps as possible, we hit only 3 knots of tide in Dorus Mor.
Clouds over The Gulf of Corryveckan
John and Ann met us at Crinan.
We were the last boat to get into Canal that night.
We motored through a couple of locks and settled down for the night.
It is important, Dear Reader, to remember to look out for bridges ahead when motoring along canals. Our boat (mast height 16.5 metres) will not easily fit under a closed road bridge (height 2 metres).
A nice stop on the Crinan Canal
Next day was sunny and hot but then became windy.
The Crinan Canal was built about 200 years ago so that ships could get from the Clyde to Oban without going around the Mull of Kintyre (thus avoiding endless renditions of Paul McCartney’s little ditty****…which, of course, at the time, had not been written). Unfortunately because Sir Paul was not born 200 years ago *, the canal served little use until recent years when yotties re-discovered it.
Anyway … Wednesday 15th August 2012
We locked our way, first up and then down the Crinan Canal from Crinan to Ardrisaig.
John and Ann were wonderful, opening and closing gates, catching ropes and providing cake.
Jean helps John close a lock.
Locking with another boat
We teamed up with another boat which accompanied us through most of the locks. This was good thing because they knew what they were doing.
Towards the end of the day the wind got a bit nasty (F6) and this made locking quite a challenge **.
Wednesday night was too windy for further progress so we rafted up to “Adela” ably assisted by her charming, helpful and altogether very nice skipper ***
We said “Goodbye” to John and Ann and settled down to worrying about the weather.
Thursday 16th August.
After a prolonged period of dithering and worrying about the weather, we eventually decided “to go for it” and left the canal at about 1300 hours in F5 and motored to Portavadie Marina.
Portavadie Marina has hair straighteners in the men’s showers.
For a man with as much hair as I have, this is obviously of crucial importance.
Portavadie Marina
As I understand it, Portavadie Marina was constructed in a basin excavated 20 or 30 years ago to create a harbour for the maintenance of oil rigs.Portavadie is on the West Coast of Scotland.
The oil was on the East Coast.
They didn’t get a lot (any?) business.
The oil rig harbour was therefore converted into a Marina (with hair straighteners in the loos, obviously).
Friday 17th August.
We went home.
Portavadie to Glasgow Airport isn’t difficult (2 buses, one ferry, one train, a shuttle bus … and you’re there!)
The house felt strangely empty without Bonzo.
I hadn’t realised that dogs could be held on remand and then bailed, but perhaps our modest contribution to the Retired Dog Warden Benevolent Fund helped a little. Anyway, our tame psychopathic canine is home again, at least for now.
* Note to Author .. I need to check this
** Yottie term meaning “very difficult”
*** name withheld for security reasons
**** "Mull of Kintyre"
Monday, 13 August 2012
Portree to Ornsay to Tobermory (again) to Loch Aline to Oban.
Hello again Linda.
The plot so far.
In essence, three intrepid sailors are boating somewhere in
Scotland.
Thursday 9th August 2012
We left Portree and headed under the bridge to Skye planning
to stop at Kyle of Lochalsh (mainly I think because the latter sounds very
Scottish). K of L was however, in our
view, pretty horrible, so we went on to anchor on the Isle of Ornsay (which was
nice).
Martin introduced us to McEwan’s 80 Shilling (beer).
This was (in every respect) a good thing.
We explored the island
(walked up to the hotel).
The hotel offered shooting, fishing and deer stalking and
had a restaurant.
We had an excellent meal on board and a peaceful night at
anchor.
Friday & Saturday 10th - 11th
August
Back down to Tobermory.
Fuel, water, electricity, food and very nice walk in the hot
Scottish sunshine.
A meal at the pub.
Sunday 12th August
We went sailing!
We set off for Lismore Island but ended up in Loch Aline.
It was a nice day (when we set off).
The wind was on our nose and went F4 .. 5 .. 6 .. 7. The tide was adverse (obviously).
There are lots of boats around here (possibly as crowded as
the Solent at 3 a.m on a weekday in early February when BBC 1 has the FA Cup Final on and ITV4 a slightly pornographic movie).
Anyway ... there were enough boats around for a little race and
(it being the Olympics at the time), we took Silver.
8 miles of proper sailing was enough, which is why we ended
up in Loch Aline.
Loch Aline. Another beautiful, sheltered Scottish loch.
Monday 13th August
Off to Oban. Raining
today. Motored.
Oban Marina. Nice.
Unfortunately we have to say Goodbye to Martin tomorrow
morning.
Martin tying a Turk’s
Head to the wheel (I was surprised that this is still allowed).
Friday, 10 August 2012
Loch Moidart to Arisaig to Rum to Loch Scaraig to Loch Harport to Dunvegan to Rona to Portree to Isle Ornsay
Possibly rather a long title?
Hello again Dear Reader(s), have you missed me?
Anyway .. we are in
Scotland … roughly …
Loch Moidart
Initially windy and wet, later windy and wet.
On our second day we had a really good walk … along the coast over the mountain, around
the lake, down to the sea and back to the boat
… wonderful!
We slept well.
2nd August 2012
Off to Arisaig.
Quite challenging to get into.
If you follow the obvious transit on the hill, you feel very
reassured until you realise that the transit actually consists of two Vodafone
aerials on a post halfway up the mountain.
These are, of course, always in line from all directions.
We were allocated a mooring and went ashore to the
launderette.
Arisaig is nice
(BSA>>12.7).
The tourist centre is excellent.
The Spar Shop sells everything.
We are happy.
3rd August
We greet Martin at the station and flubber him aboard.
Off to Rum. (aka Rhum).
(Martin: “Crowded, there was another boat in the bay”)
Night in Rum.
4th
August
Ashore in the morning.
Today is the official “Rum Midge Fest” .. ruined by a lack of Midges.
We walked up to the castle and watched a couple of horses
having it off in the field. Apparently Edward VIII enjoyed himself here as
well.
Next stop Loch Scalaig for lunch
The Most Beautiful Anchorage in Europe.
Scalaig
Off to Loch Harport for the night (home caught mackerel and chicken stew).
Anchored outside the Talisker distillery.
5th August
Epic beat to Dunvegan (full of carnivores).
Dinner aboard.
6th August
Walk to castle
Walk to MacLeod’s finger (erected 2000, vandalised 2001)
MacLeod’s finger
Walk to shop ..
Martin walked to the bakery.
Nice meal (F & C) at Dunvegan Hotel. Pleasant English
landlady.
7th August
Epic trip to Rona
(not a real Epic, but Martin dictated this bit).
Rona .. deserted but
for 7 boat in the anchorage.
No road vehicles except 2 quad bikes and a JCB.
Nice walk to the cave chapel where Martin found a fossilised
Ichthyosaur (rabbit bones).
Night at anchor.
8th August
Awesome spinnaker beat to Portree
spinnaker
Decided to sell spinnaker when we get home (if we ever do).
Arrived Portree
Highland Games Week in Portree.
Lots of Highland Games going on.
Ate out for lunch then had circular walk (obviously).
Delicious supper aboard.
9th August
Off to Kyle of Lochalsh. Decided not to stop as K o L was a
bit of a dump.
We witnessed a dramatic rescue ... reader(s) of nervous
disposition should look away now .. anyway,
let me take you to the scene ..
“Stornoway Coastguard, Stornoway Coastguard, Stornoway
Coastguard, this is Yacht Mule, Yacht Mule, Yacht Mule, we are becalmed, on
flat water, in no danger whatsoever and the engine is b*gg*red, help! Over”
The rest of this story is probably too frightening for my
reader(s) but rest assured Dear Reader(s) no animals were harmed in the
reconstruction of this event.
But .. we saw a huge
pod of dolphins whilst listening to unfolding
events.
Dolphin jumping
Under the Bridge of Skye (complete absence of bunnies).
Next stop Ornsay (from where I write).
Friday, 3 August 2012
Tobermory to Muck to Loch Cean Traigh to Loch Moidart
It’s pouring and windy.
The anchor bridle creaks and the wheel spins in the gusts.
We are sheltering in Loch Moidart.
We had two nights in Tobermory and a lovely walk along the
cliffs to a waterfall
A waterfall near
Tobermory.
Tobermory
We went out to dinner at the bar by the marina for our
wedding anniversary (35) extravaganza.
30th July
Off to the Isle of Muck. Population about 24 plus us plus a
boat load of twitchers.
Muck had a grand modern harbour (thanks to the EU)
Muck’s harbour.
We walked up the main road… over the island to the beach
Muck’s beach with Rum’s mountains behind.
It was all very lovely, but with bad weather on the way we
had to find a better anchorage.
Off to Loch Cean Traigh.
Loch Cean Traigh
31st July
After a quiet night and a walk along the beach and through
some bracken we set off for Loch Moidart
Jean in the bracken
We arrived outside Loch Moidart at HW plus 0200 (because I
was anxious not to wreck the boat in the loch).
Interesting trip up the loch to shelter behind Riska
Island (not brilliant shelter with the
wind coming towards us, and us in front of the island).
We flubbered ashore and walked around the ruins of Castle
Tioram.
Built in the 14th Century. Burnt down by the MacDonalds (who owned it)
to prevent the Campbells from getting
it (or possibly the other way round) about 250 years ago.
Silly lot.
Castle Tioram from
the boat.
Egg and bacon for supper (good).
A bad night (not good .. obviously)
The weather outside is horrible, but then it is August.
Sunday, 29 July 2012
Coll to Tobermory
We left the puffins and kittiwakes of Lunga and headed out
to Coll.
Coll is just northeast of Tiree. Tiree is famous as a
windsurfing place.
Coll is about 10 miles by 3 with 2 shops, an hotel, some
beautiful beaches and an airstrip … and, when we arrived, 3 basking sharks.
Basking sharks are seriously impressive but very difficult
to photograph
Basking shark (just
after it jumped out, smiled, looped and went swimming again).
We moored and went ashore.
Fish and chips at the hotel, a windy night in the bay.
Friday 27th July
(The day of the Long Walk)
We flubbered ashore and went for a walk.
Various people offered us lifts in their cars … including a
nice lady who reminded me of Father Ted’s housekeeper, perhaps she was on
holiday from Craggy Island?
Eventually we accepted one
… a lift that is.
A nice man drove us to the other side of the island.
It was a long walk back from there, although the beaches
were lovely.
A lovely beach on
Coll
On the way back, we met a dog who wanted to come walking
with us.
A dog.
Unfortunately, presumably because we appeared (to passing
cars) to be walking a dog, no one stopped to offer us a lift back home.
Eventually, after some 6 miles, we did persuade a passing
vehicle to abduct / adopt the dog (quite a nice dog, by dogs’ standards) and
let us walk on dogless at last.
Unfortunately no more cars passed, so we still didn’t get a
lift.
It rained.
We got back to Arinagour (the capital of Coll) at 1500, just
in time for elevenses’.
It had almost been An Epic.
A quiet night on our mooring.
Saturday 28th July 2012.
Forecast NW F4-5
perhaps 6 or even 7.
We motored in F2-3 much of the way to Tobermory (of
Wimbledon Womble fame).
Tobermory is nice, sunny, friendly.
The town’s not bad either.
Shops.
Launderette.
“Diesel by hose on the pontoon.”
What more could we want?
Footnote:
No word
from Bonzo.
It really is time he learnt to type.
Time to invent the Dogblog?
Saturday, 28 July 2012
Port Ellen to Loch Tarbert (Jura) to Tinker’s Hole to Iona to Bunessan to Coll
After a three-night stop in Port Ellen, it was time to go
sailing again.
Monday 23rd July
We left Islay and sailed north through the Sound to Loch
Tarbert on Jura.
Having negotiated the very narrow entrance, Loch Tarbert was
stunning.
Quiet, perfectly sheltered.
Beautiful. A complete absence of
dogs.
Loch Tarbert evening
Tuesday.
Off to Tinker’s Hole.
This is a wonderful, rocky anchorage off Erraid just off the
SW corner of Mull.
N.B. Erraid is
important because, as students, a number of us decided to acquire it from the
Duke of Argyle and build a hippie community there.
The project got off to a rather inauspicious start…..
I typed a letter to His Lordship suggesting that he might
like to give us the island, but on checking through it, I found that it started
with the line
“My Dear Lord Duck”.
I still find this quite funny.
Anyway, some of our intrepid team later set off (in mid
winter) by motorbike for this island.
Unfortunately, having made it only to North Yorkshire, we overslept somewhat
and awoke next day to realise that:
- it was a very long way to Scotland
- motor biking was very cold in Winter
- the whole project was very silly.
Tinker’s Hole is a lovely anchorage. It is a little scary to
get into (and out of), but it is lovely.
We went ashore, climbed on the rocks, watched some seals,
and generally felt very happy.
Tinker’s Hole
Wednesday 25th July
Off to Iona. We
anchored half a mile up from the Cathedral.
Founded to commemorate
St Columba’s arrival in Scotland bringing Christianity from Ireland. (Of
course, the Irish got Christianity from St Brendan, who had paddled across from
Wales in a coracle. I’m not certain how Christianity got from England to Wales,
or why it didn’t go straight from London to Glasgow … M1 M6 etc. thus avoiding a lot of dangerous messing about in boats .. anyway). We looked around the Cathedral and had tea.
Next, back to the boat and around to Bunessan.
We anchored in the bay. It was nice.
Thursday 26th July.
First stop Staffa …
Fingal’s Caves (we didn’t stop, but
sailed around and had a good look).
Staffa .. I wont bore
you with its connection with The Giant’s Causeway.
Next, Lunga Island.
This a “must do, must see, and must go on about destination.”
A lovely anchorage.
Beautiful island. The birds were
totally wonderful.
Puffins, Kittiwakes, Guillemots.
A lovely walk along the cliffs.
Puffins on Lunga.
Near Lunga is another island the
interestingly named “Dutchman's Cap”
Off again, now to Arinagour on the Island of Coll.
More about this and The Long Walk of Coll, coming
soon.
Sunday, 22 July 2012
Troon to Campbeltown to Islay
Troon was good but life must go on, so we left at 1000 on
Saturday 19th July.
At 1005 the Troon to Somewhere ferry also leaves Troon
(going somewhere or other) but we didn’t collide.
Troon is dredged to about 4 metres but we only had 0.0
beneath us near the entrance.
Next stop Campbeltown on Kintyre.
Saw porpoises on the way; also Guillemots, Shearwaters and
BBGs.
We’ve visited before and dropped our anchor on exactly the
same spot (just up from the submarine).
The view from our anchorage
Nearby was Yacht “Ithaca”
(again).
Ithaca’s owners plus dog, flubbered out their boat.
Later the dog took them ashore again for a walk.
Later still, they returned.
Next day, the dog was up early. They flubbered ashore,
presumably for another walk.
Friday 20th July.
Off to Port Ellen on Islay via the infamous Mull of Kintyre.
We took the “inner passage” through Sanda Sound.
Having calculated this to the nearest five minutes, we were
not impressed to see other boats completely ignoring the tidal constraints and
sailing through these treacherous waters at the wrong state of the tide and in
the wrong direction but without any difficulty.
It did get a bit bumpy on the SW corner of the Mull but
nothing too terrible. (Next time we
would go closer inshore and hopefully completely avoid the overfalls.)
It was something of a slog across to Port Ellen on Islay as
we wanted to go NW and that was where the wind was coming from.
For some reason, our boat will make 6 knots on port in 12
knots of true wind beating but only 5 knots on starboard. We are confident that Martin will sort this
out for us.
We have also discovered that hoisting the genoa properly
(using a winch) makes the sail set much better.
Anyway, we managed to sail, against the wind, for almost all
the way to Port Ellen where we arrived in sunshine at 1740 feeling pretty
pleased with ourselves.
Port Ellen (BSA>10) is lovely, and we berthed without
trauma.
Saturday 21st July.
We walked to the Laphroaig Distillery and had a guided tour.
Making alcohol taste of burnt peat and oak takes a lot of
effort.
The distillery is
cleverly camouflaged
It’s all quite interesting really.
Only 85% of the malted grain required to make Laphroaig
Whisky is manufactured at the modern chemical plant near the port, the rest
comes from the more traditional process still practiced at the old distillery.
Much of the flavour, I understand, comes from the phenols
present in the smoke from the peat.
Phenols, as far as I remember, intercalate rather neatly into the
helical structure of nucleic acid polymers thus disrupting the coding required
for protein synthesis. This makes them, potentially at least, potent
carcinogens.
We tasted a couple of drams then we walked home and had a
sleep.
Saturday afternoon dawned brightly.
The internet café was still shut (everyone was busy at the highland games up the road) but we
remained confident that the weather on Sunday would be terrible.
We had another little walk (past the chemical works) and
back along the beautiful white beach.
The Marina at Port Ellen
The word was now out that tomorrow was going to be windy and
our little marina was completely full.
Mainly Swedes and northern Europeans, one French boat and us.
Bradley Wiggins has the yellow jersey.
We decided not to talk on the pontoon about, football, the
war or cycling.
We had a nice meal at The Islay Hotel (Soup, Sea Trout and bottle of sauv blanc)
and returned to our boat.
Wednesday, 18 July 2012
Troon again
Saying “Goodbye” is
always a pleasure when talking to canines.
It’s good to be back in Troon.
Tomorrow Campbeltown
… hopefully.
Monday, 16 July 2012
More about dogs
Recent research*, reported in JPPD ** indicating that 83% of canines preferred The Higgs to any other subatomic particle, has failed to generate very much interest.
As far as Bonzo is concerned, there's little difference between an Up Quark and a Charm Quark, that cant be detected with a good sniff.
Don't miss next week's posting. More riveting sailing news and something about the canine importance of Gluons.
* "Quarks .. do they matter?"
** The Journal of Particle Physics for Dogs
As far as Bonzo is concerned, there's little difference between an Up Quark and a Charm Quark, that cant be detected with a good sniff.
Don't miss next week's posting. More riveting sailing news and something about the canine importance of Gluons.
* "Quarks .. do they matter?"
** The Journal of Particle Physics for Dogs
Thursday, 5 July 2012
Home again
Home again and Bonzo is fine.
The injunction didn't really work as Bonzo like many dogs cant read.
He does of course watch television but has been unable to understand quite what is so exciting about the recent discovery of the Higgs boson. So for dogs everywhere, I have included this simple diagram.
The cruise:
Leg 4 is still at the planning stage but might remotely possibly go vaguely like:
17/18 July Troon
19 Campbeltown
20 Port Ellen
22 Port Askaig
23 Loch Tarbert
25 Scalasaig
27 Iona
29 Coll
31 Muck
4 August Arisaig * pick up M
6 Tobermory
8 Loch Linnhe
9 Loch Melfort
10 Crinan Canal
11 Ardrishaig
12 Portavadie
14 Home
The injunction didn't really work as Bonzo like many dogs cant read.
He does of course watch television but has been unable to understand quite what is so exciting about the recent discovery of the Higgs boson. So for dogs everywhere, I have included this simple diagram.
The cruise:
Leg 4 is still at the planning stage but might remotely possibly go vaguely like:
17/18 July Troon
19 Campbeltown
20 Port Ellen
22 Port Askaig
23 Loch Tarbert
25 Scalasaig
27 Iona
29 Coll
31 Muck
4 August Arisaig * pick up M
6 Tobermory
8 Loch Linnhe
9 Loch Melfort
10 Crinan Canal
11 Ardrishaig
12 Portavadie
14 Home
Tuesday, 3 July 2012
Troon … City of Adventure
3rd July
We are in Troon.
We’ve already been to Morrisons.
The marina has a bath for the ladies but only showers for
the blokes.
Is this fair?
We have a very nice new fender board in preparation for the
Crinan Canal and the Wilds of the North.
Troon is the logging capital of Ayrshire
Logs in Troon
Templehill Street has:
a GPs’ surgery
a Chemist’s shop
a Chiropodist
an Optometrist
and three Undertakers.
But …
West Portland Street has:
a Canine Boutique
(eat your heart out Bonzo!)
Monday, 2 July 2012
Glenarm to Troon (via The Giant’s Causeway)
Glenarm is really lovely
(BSA*>10).
Glenarm is even nicer than
this picture shows
Glenarm is only 90 minutes by bus from The Giant’s
Causeway.
Two possibilities:
1. A giant (called Finn MacCool), having had a strop and wanting
to do battle with a rival giant in Scotland (Benandonner), decides to build a
paved highway over to Scotland (the Island of Staffa, to be precise) .. in order to get there (obviously).
The Causeway is what remains.
2. As molten lava cools slowly, it cracks to form fairly
regular columns of basalt which can look just like …err, a Giant’s Causeway?
For further thoughts, including a theological view on this
sort of problem, please refer to Russell’s Teapot.
Jean at The Giants
Causeway
Saturday 30 June
Off to Scotland.
After much discussion and calculation, we left Northern
Ireland (now one of my favourite countries, though not yet having a fully
validated BSA**), and headed out into the Northern Channel towards bonny
Scotland.
As my calculations were based on not having to get up early
we arrived off the Mull of Kintyre at the wrong time and had to fight the
tide***.
Arrived Campbeltown in Kintyre and anchored near (but not dangerously near) the
unmarked wreck of a submarine having fortunately been forewarned by Helen’s
Father-in-law****.
Anyway, “Thanks,
Peter”
Sunday 1st July.
Off to Lamlash.
Sailed most of the way. Moored in northwest corner in order
to take full advantage of the lack of shelter from the East.
Holy Island opposite
Lamlash
Holy Island is owned, run and lived in by Buddhists.
We went ashore (to Lamlash) by flubber and enjoyed a nice meal and a
little wine at The Pierhead Tavern.
Monday 2nd July.
The morning dawned with an Easterly and rain and fog.
Our mooring was wobbly and wet.
I rapidly cancelled my secret trip to Holy Island to seek
enlightenment (Surely they could tell me how to come to terms with Bonzo?), and
we set off instead for Troon.
Troon is Scotland Proper and only 14 miles away.
We motored out into the fog
……
What happened next?
Did our intrepid dog-loving sailors survive the Fogs of
The Clyde?
Await the next exciting instalment “Troon … City of Adventure”
*BSA
… see elsewhere if you must
**BSA
… don’t bother
***fight
the tide = start the motor
****
… cunning ploy not to reveal names on the web.
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